On the Caledonian Canal – Inverness Head 2023 Review

500 miles from the hustle and bustle of the Tideway is the quiet calm of the Caledonian Canal. This 5km course, which emerges straight from the canal lock of Loch Ness, is the home of the spirit of Scottish rowing. Nestled within in the purple rolling hills of Inverness and surrounded by the misty Scottish countryside, this competition is like no other.

Last weekend, Scottish rowers, from the youngest juniors to jubilant students, to the somewhat grumbly masters, made the trek northward for Inverness Head. The variety of events and categories crossed with the tight turns of the canal made for an exciting weekend for all involved with the occasional tangle with the rocky bank or canal boat inevitability lurking. At the final corner, past Nessie’s watching eyes, you can be sure to hear the roar of the spectators, happy to cheer for any club they recognise. 

Despite the fact that the most anticipated predictions made were the weather forecast, and the call of WEHORR left gaps in the usual lineup, all the competitors brought their ferocity to the event. It could perhaps be argued that there was more passion in the queue for bacon rolls than on the water; more strategy in staying warm than in race plans and perhaps more adrenaline in not incurring the wrath of a time penalty from the officials than on the start line. But the nature of Inverness seems to transcend the act of rowing, existing in itself as a hallmark experience of rowing in Scotland, and a homage to all those who love the sport and the community it provides. 

The event, which takes place biannually, in November and March has always been one of my favourite events as a rower. And while not the sweaty, blood-pumping glory of other events, Inverness Head, epitomises the heartiness of rowers, their reliance, passion, and their spirit. It has a sense of quiet magic, much like the mystery of its famous monster.

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